Sunday, January 31, 2010

A toast to the eastern coast

With just over a week left before I return to the cold northeast, I elected to spend my last full weekend in the southern hemisphere on a road-trip along the eastern coast, visiting and staying in three small waterfront villages north of Durban.

At the first stop – Salt Rock – I stayed with my close friend Justin’s uncle and aunt, former Johannesburg residents who relatively recently moved to the coast. Their home, which was a mere kilometer or so from the ocean, was nestled in thick layers of plant growth, trees reaching directly over their front porch and animals at times seeming to share the abode with its human inhabitants. On the first night, we roasted chicken outside, the sounds of unfamiliar creatures crowding the humid night air. Talking late into the night, I was so exhausted when I retreated to my hut that I didn’t even notice the legions of lizards that scurried around the wall and ceiling.

The next day marked my arrival in Ballito, the eastern coast’s wealthy, resort-like seafront town. Waking early in the morning, I had my inaugurating surf experience, paddling my newfound friend’s board far into the ocean before trying to imitate other surfer’s techniques – pick up speed, ride the wave, get your feet on the board, balance – and make my return to land. I managed to get my knees on the board (and for a brief moment, one foot), but all in all the experience left me further in awe of the athletes who manage to compete in this exasperating sport.

At night, I ventured inland with some friends from the Netherlands to Karibu farm, a livestock farm that serves scrumptious, home-cooked/raised meals on weekend evenings. The whopping plate of ribs that I devoured, with a tall glass of Namibian “Windhoek” brew, left my stomach and mind in delight. I arose the next morning to catch some more of the sun’s rays at Shaka’s beach, a renowned waterfront area that covers most of Shaka Town. Named after Shaka Zulu, the famous Zulu conqueror, Shaka Town was a pleasant little seaside village, presenting a nice and cheap backpacker accommodation as well as a couple of delicious and economical seafood restaurants.

Returning to Durban on Sunday night, I was perfectly refreshed for my last week in my new South African home. I was graciously welcomed back to my lovely home on 286 Lena Ahrens, spending a pleasant night catching up with housemates and taking in the still-stunning view of the city.

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